a journey of the senses by FLACONNEUR
ÉDITION RARE – AMBRAREM – 2011 – ♂♀
Top: Pink Peppercorn, Elemi
Heart: Iris Absolute, Oud, Saffron
Base: Castoreum Absolute, Bourbon Vanilla, Sandalwood, Amber
Perfumer: Gerald Ghislain
Price: $175 for 60ml bottle
The Edition Rare collection from Histoires de Parfums is an interesting concept from perfumer Gerald Ghislain. This series was release just last year. Mr. Ghislain has this “stories through scent” credo when developing his productions. All three in this collection share a command thread, the ever popular oudh. This trio’s modern interpretation showcases the exotic dark resinous oudh, and explores the arena of plant, mineral and animal themes. Ambrarem is denoted as the one in this group with an animalistic nature. We will see.
Edition Rare-Ambrarem opens with a sharp and peppery stance, laced with a bit of brisk conifer and shadowy citrus. This brief opening caught me by surprise. As the opening fades, a slightly powdery and soft iris is detected. As dark, woody, resinous oudh and the hay-like scent of saffron creeps into the picture, it banishes any thoughts of pretty powdery florals taking center stage in Ambrarem. Just as fleeting as the opening was, the heart skips casually on its way. The slightly scorched leather-like castoreum keeps Ambrarem a smoldering oddity. The smoky, simmering ember that burns in the base of this fragrance is blended with a sophisticated boozy vanilla. The vanilla adds a touch of aged sweetness, while dry aromatic sandalwood and amber adds the warmth this aggressive fragrance needed.
I found Edition Rare-Ambrarem to be compelling and a bit mystifying. I subconsciously continued to sniff my hand time and time again while sampling this fragrance. The fiery quality was engrossing and the woody and warming nature kept my interest. Is Ambrarem truly the animal in this trio by Histoires de Parfums? I find it to be a loose interpretation at best. The animalistic suggestions are rather vague. Gerald Ghislain’s slight nod to an animalistic nature in Ambrarem is circumscribed within a smoky, leathery scent with a cuddly warm amber root.