a journey of the senses by FLACONNEUR
JUOZAS STATKEVIČIUS – 2004 – ♂♀
Top: Jasmine, Coriander
Base: Benzoin, Cashmere Wood, Musk, Patchouli, Vanilla
Perfumer: Fabrice Pellegrin
Price: $180 for 50ml bottle
This native Lithuanian might be better recognized as the young fashion and theatre costume designer, rather than a fragrance designer. Juozas Statkevičius (a.k.a. Josef Statkus) commissioned perfumer Fabrice Pellegrin to create Juozas Statkevičius Eau de Parfum. Fabrice Pellegrin has created several fragrances for other well known perfume houses such as Diptyque, Hermès, Thierry Mugler and Azzaro. This fragrance was introduced to the U.S. market in 2004 with modest success. It’s a favorite among fragrance lovers who admire incense based scents. Since I’m one of those people, I had to give it a go.
Juozas Statkevičius’s Eau de Parfum opens with heavy shot of inebriating amber and a spattering of patchouli. This sets the stage for a timid coriander that can hardly rise above the overbearing duo, and remains very subtle and unpronounced. The transition from opening to heart is very linear, almost boringly so. The amber and patchouli eruption ultimately quiets down allowing a layer of floral jasmine and incense adequate breathing room. The heart of this fragrance is said to be built around incense, I don’t see it. While the illusion of incense is created with a sheer smokiness that is conceived as warm and comforting, it is fashioned more with the use of woods and amber. I find Juozas Statkevičius’s Eau de Parfum to be focused on warm amber, slightly folksy and pickled patchouli and resinous wood accords. Jasmine is not a subject in this story but is added for texture. The jasmine will likely meet up with its cohort vanilla adding the necessary sweet and creamy layer this fragrance desires. The transition from heart to base is again, very linear. Juozas Statkevičius’s Eau de Parfum changes slightly to a more resinous and woody temperament with sweet and creamy references. I still get waves of amber and patchouli in the dry down but with more woody facets that are more tolerable. Even though the transitions are very linear and quick, the result is a heart with warm ambery woods and a sweet, creamy temperament provided by vanilla with a very subtle trace of smoke. Finally, musk adds an uncertain animalistic quality giving Juozas Statkevičius’s Eau de Parfum much needed funk.
I have a bit of trouble with fragrances that carry the name of people that one minute are designing fashion and theatre costumes and the next perfumes. What role did Juozas Statkevičius’s really play in the creation of this fragrance and how much of what you’re experiencing is being influenced by Fabrice Pellegrin? You could easily ask the same question of many of Juozas Statkevičius’s contemporaries. The longevity and sillage is good, and it is pleasing to wear. While I find this fragrance compelling, warm and sightly complex, it is also very linear, and too simple to satisfy. Perhaps the inspiration for this fragrance is the country of Lithuania. Is this one of those places where the streets have taken on the scent of time and history. Perhaps it encapsulates the type of smells you might encounter inside a Lithuanian book store or antique shop. Juozas Statkevičius’s Eau de Parfum is a pleasant fragrance nonetheless, but is it fantastic enough to want to make you purchase a bottle?