a journey of the senses by FLACONNEUR
ANTONIA – 2010 – ♂
Top: Jasmine, Rose Essence
Heart: Orris, Ylang-ylang, Ivy Green
Base: Galbanum, Vanilla, Vetiver
Perfumer: Annie Buzantian
Price: $198 for 17.5ml flacon
Antonia by Puredistance is the second of three perfumes created by Romanian born perfumer Annie Buzantian. She is no newcomer to the world of perfume. During the beginning of Buzantian’s career, she was the co-creator of such familiar fragrances as Clinique’s Happy for Men, Armani’s Acqua di Gio and Victoria’s Secret’s Pink. She has created many other fragrances for such names as Tommy Hilfiger, Ralph Lauren, Marc Jacobs, Azzaro and Estée Lauder. Buzantian has two other successful fragrance creations for the Netherlands based company Puredistance under her belt, but Antonia is the most impressive to me thus far. Antonia takes us on an amazing sensory journey that embodies a strong, resilient, modern woman who is a little bit heroic. This woman also has softer, more gently maternal characteristics associated with the notions of traditional femininity. This perfumer’s conceptual woman, with such an intriguing dichotomy, is the inspiration behind this intriguing fragrance.
Antonia is modern in structure with rather formal vintage implications. This fragrance takes you on a journey akin to a walk through an Edwardian garden, bathed in a warm summer air that’s percolating with soft, spicy roses and subtle green nuances. Its entrance is an arbor surrounded in fresh greens, dripping in sweet jasmine. A sheer green note waves in and out between the sweet and spicy blooms. The aftermath of this jasmine and rose duet, successfully creates a modern femme fatale perfume. The opening of Antonia emulates some of Buzantian’s signature notes, rose, jasmine, and her love of fresh greens. The heart of Antonia presents a much more modern convention of florals, however. Orris, with its clean violet likeness and woody accord, melds beautifully with the highly tropical yet simplistic, fruity nature of ylang-ylang. There is a faint suggestion of powder, but not in an old suffocating way, but in a clearly fastidious manner. The base of Antonia commences with galbanum’s schizophrenic greenish, yet musky charm. This, paired with sweet, tantalizing vanilla with its little bit of coziness, is exactly the warmth Antonia needed. The addition of vetiver supports the warm qualities of vanilla and the musky overtone of the galbanum. It also adds a much needed light woodiness and makes the finish earthly bound. The floral ensemble, which seemed so prevalent in the opening and heart of Antonia, is now but a quiet whisper. Antonia’s dry down is a perplexing, but satisfying combination of powdery aldehydes, fresh greens and musky woodiness that is interesting and compelling.
There is no arguing that Antonia is a sophisticated combination of modern versus vintage. We see this marriage being somewhat commonplace today in such avenues as fashion and interior design. What Buzantian has created is a captivating concoction, one fantastic feminine cocktail if you will. Antonia is a fragrance for a woman who lives in the modern world but is emotionally tied to the past. I remember my first impression of Antonia as being truly one of the most intriguing fragrances I’ve experienced. I enjoy its nostalgic references and modern disposition. Antonia is a bit of a tele-transporter of sorts, with its feet firmly planted in the modern world. It offers a brief escape, taking you back to a time of simple pleasures, like a walk in an Edwardian garden on a warm summer day.