a journey of the senses by FLACONNEUR
CUIR VELOURS – 2012 – ♀♂
Top: Tobacco, Rum
Heart: Labdanum, Strawflower, Honey
Base: Amber, Frankincense, Leather
Perfumer: Julien Rasquinet
Price: $150 for 50ml
Naomi Goodsir is an Australian designer whose comfort zone was based in couture millinery for over 10 years. Her creations have taken her on journeys to the English National Opera and collaboration with some pretty interesting names in fashion. In 2012, her collaborative efforts with creative director Renaud Coutaudier resulted in the creation of a couple of compelling offerings of the world of perfume. Goodsir’s products maintain a traditional approach to the perfume process and her raw materials are of the highest quality. The fruits of her labor are fabricated in Grasse, France where she presently lives and works. Naomi Goodsir’s concept for Cuir Velours was a velvety suede that was surrounded by a tobacco accord.
Cuir Velours opens with a surly blast of alcoholic molasses, a touch of fruit cake and a hint of moistened tobacco leaf. This certainly sounds like a strange holiday potpourri concoction. Nonetheless, the damp and strangely sweet confection undeniably gets your attention. As the opening notes expire, the end result is a luscious sugary rum and dry smoldering tobacco accord with an unusual underlying incense quality. The remnants of the opening notes comfortably settle on the skin as the heart of Cuir Velours boasts immortelle flower blanketed in a sun-baked hay-like haze. These elements are rather nice neutrals, resting points if you will, in preparation for the waxy and creamy suede-like notes which follow. Powdery labdanum and an unanticipated honey glaze help to weave an alluring gourmand web. In complete contrast, the base is warmed up with a touch of amber, giving us the first glimpse of this fragrance’s velvety personality. Frankincense incorporates a necessary clarifying smoky quality, definitely supporting the tobacco accord earlier in the opening. A leathery, rich, suede note successfully debuts in the heart of Cuir Velours. While detected all along, its scent paints a ghostly still life of antique books and well worn saddles. This creamy combination is a superlative complement to the luscious tobacco and rum accords experienced in the fragrance’s opening. Cuir Velours is reminiscent of some very famous “bad girl” perfumes from the art deco era. Goodsir does a fantastic job of taking the best elements of perfumes of the 1930’s and successfully modernizes the genre.
I openly admit that my opinion can be a bit skewed regarding any fragrance based on leather or suede. My love for this type of perfumes cannot hinder my honest impression of this beauty. I thoroughly enjoy Cuir Velours’ intended velvety lusciousness. From what I’ve gathered, so does everyone else I encounter when I’m wearing it. This fragrance consistently stimulates a great deal of interest. Because of the quality of the product, longevity is excellent and a little goes a long way. People find this fragrance alluring, warm and memorable. Cuir Velours is the perfect oasis in a sea of blustery Midwestern winter days.