PER FUMUS

a journey of the senses by FLACONNEUR

REPLICA – JAZZ CLUB by Maison Martin Margiela

maison martin margiela_jazz club

REPLICA JAZZ CLUB – 2013 –
Classification: Leather
Top: Pink pepper, Primofiore lemon, Neroli oil
Heart: Rum absolute, Clary sage oil, Java vetiver oil
Base: Tobacco leaf absolute, Vanilla bean, Styrax resin
Perfumer: Alienor Massenet
Price: $125 for 100ml bottle


In 2012, Maison Martin Margiela introduced a line of fragrances whose concept looked to borrow a little from the past, not unlike their endeavors in men’s and women’s fashion. This newest fragrance collection referred to as REPLICA, consists of eight imaginative fabrications. Each work recreates moments and sparks memories associated with our personal experiences of places and things. The hope was to make those experiences spring to life. The fragrance’s container is an interesting nod to the iconic apothecary-style jars. While visually antiseptic, the clever container sets this line apart. Every bottle is clearly marked with a 100% cotton label, printed in the graphic style of a garment tag. The bottle’s pump is wrapped tidily with rope, both attributes having been seen in the clothing and accessories for the REPLICA couture collection. The REPLICA collection consist of the following fragrances: Lazy Sunday Morning, Tea Escape, Promenade In The Garden, Funfair Evening, At The Barber’s, Flower Market, Beach Walk and Jazz Club. I’ll be looking at Jazz Club in more detail.

This isn’t the quintessential, Chesterfield smoke-filled, seedy downtown jazz club scene. This jazz club is more urbane, it’s thoughtfully dressed and showered with a boozy aroma, intertwined with fine cigars. By the looks of the bottle, it’s thoroughly sanitized at least once a day as well. Jazz Club unleashes a spicy mix of pink pepper, reminiscent of many respectable gentlemen’s colognes, the likes of which would be slapped on your cheeks after a relaxing shave at the local barber. The fragrance is pushed further down the slippery slope of masculinity with a twist of lemon and a few petals of neroli. This textbook formula certainly has the Jazz Club customer’s gender identified correctly. The heart commences with a pirate-sized balloon glass, filled with a rich, dark rum, carefully warmed by hand. The heart’s finale unleashes a cavalcade of herbaceous greens, notably clary sage and vetiver. This adds a little vegetation and oxygen to the room, perking up the senses. The base concludes this night on the town with a pure aromatic tobacco leaf, soaked in a refined vanilla. A shot of styrax adds a well-mannered smoky vibe and makes a suitable bookend to the spicy opening. It also give a slight suggestion to the leather-covered seating found at any respectable establishment.

Jazz Club is a very pleasing fragrance but the concept is undoubtedly in need of resuscitating. There is no argument that Jazz Club is modern, it is just a little too much so. This interpretation of a 2013 New Jersey jazz club is devoid of sticky floors, day old beer and stale cigarette smoke. Wow, times have changed. I find that Maison Martin Margiela’s Jazz Club as a fragrance is very respectable when all is said and done, and that’s not necessarily a bad thing. I’ve worn the sample I had of Jazz Club on several occasions and found I felt this bottle worthy without the unnecessary back story. It reminds me of Frank No. 2 by Frank Los Angeles, which I love dearly. Like Frank No. 2, Jazz Club give us a masculine theme without the time-consuming care of a mustache.

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2 comments on “REPLICA – JAZZ CLUB by Maison Martin Margiela

  1. Katy
    January 4, 2015

    As always you’ve painted a vivid picture, my friend! Sounds like an interesting line of fragrance, though your description of Jazz Club made me wonder if it is appropriately named. Something titled Jazz Club should never feel modern, clean, or glossy. Naming issues aside, it sounds like a very wearable masculine fragrance. Thank you for the review!

    • Flaconneur
      January 4, 2015

      Thinking of Jazz Club as a modern interpretation will suffice, Katy. Just like everything else in life, you can expect your experience to be exactly the same as another person’s. One person’s Jazz Club is a nothing person’s YMCA.

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