MOUSSE ILLUMINÉE by Rogue

MOUSSE ILLUMINÉE – 2018 – ♂
Olfactory Group: Aromatic Green
Notes: Treemoss, Frankincense, Green Cypress, Artemisia, Laurel Leaves, Cedar, White Floral Notes, White Musk
Perfumer: Manuel Cross
Price: $156 for 75ml bottle

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Rogue Perfumery founder and perfumer, Manuel Cross began his perfumery journey in 2005, all as result of one of his favorite colognes being discontinued. Previously, he was a chef for 25 years to some very recognizable names, such as Wolfgang Puck, Neal Fraser, Lee Hefter and Matt Bencivenga. When you think about it, cooking and perfumery share a few common elements: recipes, ingredients, and a bit of trial and error. The best ingredients result in delicious food, and the same holds true for perfume. Cross’s initial perfume hobby matured into a passion, and with that, his brand Rogue Perfumery was born. Cross is self-taught, and follows his nose. It seems to have served him well. I’ve never experienced such satisfying perfumes, especially ones that have components that look back at some of the best of decades gone by. This was my very first venture with Rogue, and it won’t be my last.

I knew seconds after my first spritz of Mousse Illuminée that I was in for something indulgent. I began to experience some relatively familiar scents. It was like an aperture had opened up, affording me a glimpse into a verdant green tree moss covered forest, the likes of which I haven’t experienced in decades. Immediately afterwards, there was an overabundance of sweetness, a touch of spice, and a cooling, camphoraceous cedar and cypress mingling. This opening was delightful, and a bit melancholy. The equivalent feeling of meeting a few old friends you haven’t seen in a very long time.

Mousse Illuminée continues on its green journey, but is softened by the debut of a few hefty white florals. They are hard to pinpoint exactly, but jasmine and perhaps a touch of tuberose are present. I wouldn’t classify this fragrance as linear, but it doesn’t stray too far afield from its apparent verdant profile. At this point the sharpness increased, but your patience will certainly pay off, as Mousse Illuminée presents a rather warm, sensual and powdery base providing a strange contrast. This is usually tricky territory, but Cross does a great job at enhancing and softening the best of the bright green qualities and white floral components with the addition of white musk.

While the intensity of greens in Mousse Illminée mellows, it certainly perpetuates a sense of surprise. The dry-down gets dangerously cozy. It seems to be a simple recipe involving frankincense, laurel leaves and white musk that elevates this apparent warming. It turns out to be an appropriate companion to the lush green quality that was obviously intentional.

Old habits can be hard to break. I really like Mousse Illuminée. The entire presentation and intention of Mousse Illminée gathers together all the best and pleasant qualities of men’s fragrances from the past. There is a genuine amount of respect paid to this particular hankering, but also a bit of realism to present-day tastes. I admire Manuel Cross’s willingness to fly in the face of convention. I think he realizes that good ingredients can make a world of difference.